Dahlias for Delight (1924)

This article is adapted from a dahlia catalog published in 1924 by Quannapowitt Dahlia Gardens in Wakefield, Massachusetts. L.L. Branthover was the proprietor.

Although the original work is in the public domain, this article has been edited for the modern reader and may contain new material. 

This version is Copyright © 2024 by Steve K. Lloyd and may not be reproduced without permission.

Editor’s note: This article discusses gardening techniques which were commonly recommended at the time of original publication. Please note that some of these may no longer be considered best practices for dahlia growers. While this article contains some excellent information, please remember that it was written 100 years ago. Consult modern guides before relying on the techniques discussed here.

Kind of Soil and Location

The dahlia does best in a light, mellow loam. Heavy clay soil will produce an abundance of foliage, but few and inferior blossoms. Any soil well adapted to the growing of corn and potatoes should give satisfactory results. Wet, heavy, soggy soil is most unsatisfactory and should be avoided. 

The dahlia will readily adapt itself to almost any soil or situation, except dense shade, and wet, sour soil. You will find dahlias growing in the warm climates of California and Mexico, and in parts of Alaska and throughout most parts of the United States. It is very flexible in its climatic habits. In some instances, it may require two years of planting to acclimate, so do not be discouraged if the looked-for-results are not secured the first season.

Preparation of Soil and Fertilizers

You should plow or spade the soil as deeply as possible. I plow to a depth of ten to twelve inches. The depth will be governed to some extent by the conditions. In some places the soil has much greater depths than in others. Where it is intended to plant in stiff heavy sod you should turn over in the fall of the year so that the grass and grass roots may, at least, partially, if not entirely, decay. Then spade or plow again before planting in the spring.

You need not expect satisfactory results by planting in a dry, hard soil. If your soil is poor, a little well rotted stable manure spread over in the fall of the year and spaded under in the spring will be beneficial. Should you not be able to do this, an application of sheep manure as purchased in a pulverized condition is highly recommended. Under no circumstances use fresh manure. More dahlias are ruined from over-fertilization than from not having the soil rich enough. 

Where the soil is known to be sour or if you find a greenish surface condition develop during the growing season (more cultivation necessary as well), you should apply a light application of slacked lime at the rate of 500 to 1,000 per acre — or about two pounds to 100 square feet — judgment will have to be used. Lime is rather strong and I prefer a fall or early spring application so that the rains may work it well into the soil.

Unleached hardwood ashes applied before planting, sown broadcast over the soil after spading or plowing and raked or harrowed into the ground is a most satisfactory aid to good dahlias — applied at the rate of about 2,000 pounds per acre, or about five pounds to 100 square feet. 

Such wood ashes contain about 15 per cent potash and will produce more and better tubers, stiff stocks and stems, and give greater depth to the colorings in the flowers. Your flowers will have better substance not being so soft as where large applications of nitrogen are given.

If you cannot get the unleached hardwood ashes, I suggest a commercial fertilizer of 4-6-10 analysis — this gives you 10 per cent potash and sufficient of the other chemicals to produce good results. Broadcast your fertilizer just as suggested with the handling of the wood ashes. I would apply this commercial fertilizer at 200 to 500 pounds per acre, or one pound to 100 square feet. If you apply both wood ashes and fertilizer less of each can be used than when one only is used.

Many recommend an application of steamed bone meal at about the time the buds begin to form. This will improve the size of the blossoms, but should not be overdone as you may force to such an extent that few and inferior tubers will be the result. 

Where you have a clay soil and the tendency is to bake and crack after a rain, you can improve by spading in, before planting, fine coal ashes, but if applied too heavily it will only add to the baking condition already existing.

My plan is to plow the ground in the fall of the year after harvesting the tubers and sow winter rye. This will give your ground winter protection and give a green manure to plow under in the spring. This is a mighty satisfactory method as I am able to get some humus into the soil which aids in moisture holding during the dry growing season and helps to keep a mellow soil condition.

I use unleached hardwood ashes and a very light covering of 4-6-10 commercial fertilizer to keep a balanced soil condition and proper plant food, with lime at the rate of 500 pounds per acre every second year.

Cultivating Dahlias

You need not await the appearance of the new plants — but cultivate the ground using an ordinary garden rake or a three to five prong garden tool. Exercise some care in doing this so as to avoid breaking off the new shoots as they near the surface. The idea being to keep the ground loose and free from weeds. 

Cultivate as often as you can—there is no danger of over-cultivation. Do this thoroughly up to the time of the appearance of buds. After that, keep free from weeds and merely break the surface of the ground with a rake—deep cultivation will break the many fibrous roots thrown out and up reaching for plant food. 

There is more in cultivation than in heavy fertilization, which is true with any vegetation. A fairly good crop can be produced on poor soil by much and proper cultivation, but little can be grown from the best of soil when not cultivated. I want to impress on all the necessity of much and frequent cultivation.

Watering Dahlias

Many people drench their dahlias daily, which forces a tall, soft growth producing few blossoms. Water, when needed, should be applied in the evenings, not merely sprinkling the surface, but soaking thoroughly.

Disbudding Dahlias

In order to have long stems and large flowers it is necessary to remove many buds. To do this as it should be done you, will pinch off the small buds on each side of the large terminal bud on the end of each lateral. Then going down toward the main stock you will also remove the buds on both sides at two joints. This will usually leave one or more joints from which additional, or what is termed tertiary wood will form and the same method should be followed in disbudding this.

At least once each week and, during a very good growing season, preferably twice each week, you should go over your plants and remove the buds. Some varieties require more disbudding than others, being free bloomers and producers of more laterals.

This process may appear too laborious, but it is surprising how quickly you will find yourself doing it. You will need to devote only a couple of minutes to each plant when it is regularly done.

Please keep in mind that chrysanthemums, cosmos, roses and others are disbudded to produce the large, long stemmed flowers you are so accustomed to see in the floral displays. It is not necessary to disbud unless you want large flowers and long stems. By not disbudding you will have many more flowers, smaller in size and with short stems. The results certainly justify disbudding and I am sure you will find much pleasure and satisfaction in doing so, after once seeing the results of your efforts.

Staking Dahlias

Many people believe that it is always necessary to stake dahlias. Some varieties are dwarf in habit and do not need stakes under any conditions. Where planted in hedge rows or in beds close together staking is not essential. 

If you plant at greater distances, staking is not necessary if you pinch out the center or top when the plants are about 12 to 15 inches high. This will force side laterals close to the ground and will prevent a tall growing plant. Your plants will then produce these laterals and bloom at an earlier date. 

Of course, some varieties are tall growing, others spreading, some are dwarf, others medium. I have given heights in my catalog as I find them in my gardens. 

Under different conditions, i.e. close planting, the tendency would be to produce tall rather than spreading plants. You may find some variance in heights and general habits due to soil, climatic and other conditions which cause modification. When you do stake, I would suggest driving the stake into the ground and then opening the hole close to the stake for the tuber. If you place stakes after planting, you may damage the tuber.

Dahlia Pests

The dahlia is almost immune from pests and disease. You may find the black or green aphis, especially during a wet season on the new stem growth; use for the aphis a nicotine spray or strong soap solution. In the case of the red spider, use cold water.

The black aster bug may bother the light colored varieties, but by taking a bucket with some kerosene in it you can quickly pass the bucket under the affected branch and the bugs will fall into the kerosene.

Cutting Dahlias for Fresh Flowers

Dahlia blossoms should be cut in the late evening or early morning. I find that cutting in the late evening proves the better method. Place them in vases of cold water in a cool place for the night, preferably in the cellar. As soon as cut, remove some of the leaves from the lower part of the stems, because the leaves standing in the water cause an acid condition in the water which will be absorbed by the blossoms and cause them to fade sooner than otherwise.

Many people dip the stems to a depth of three to four inches into boiling water for about two minutes and then put them into cold water. You can add to the keeping of the flowers by putting one teaspoonful of salt to a quart of water or by adding a small amount of household ammonia to the water. This will, to some extent, offset the acid condition created in the water.

Some varieties have better keeping qualities, when cut, than others. I have had blossoms keep in the house in good condition for one week even without changing the water. You should change daily or even twice — morning and evening. At the time of doing this, it is best to spray the blossoms with water, as they will absorb about as much through the petals as through the stems and you are just supplying that which nature does in the form of dew.

Digging Dahlias in the Fall

In the fall when your plants have been frosted, the harvesting can be done. Cut off the stalks reasonably close to the ground. Take a long-pronged garden fork and remove some of the ground around the clump — care must be used not to thrust the fork down into the tubers. 

Then going around the clump at about a distance of 12 inches, thrust the fork down and loosen up the ground and the tuber clump can then be picked up by the stem, being careful to see that the long fibrous roots on the ends of the tubers are free; otherwise in lifting up the clump you may break off some of the largest and finest tubers. 

Holding the clump in one hand, take a stone or block of wood and tap the end of the stem so as to gently remove all soil. Set the clump on the ground and if there is good sun and wind, leave to dry for about two hours. If the day is dark and cloudy, longer time may be necessary. 

All that is necessary is to have the clump dry before storing in a cool place. If placed where exposed to the outside air for several days, you will find that some of the tubers may show a tendency to shrivel. Keep them away from any heat or where they may freeze in severe weather. A temperature of about 40 degrees seems to give the best results. 

When storing the clumps, place them in a box in an inverted position, that is, with the stems downward so as to allow any accumulation of water or sap to drain from the stems. Do not put a large quantity in barrels or boxes, since those at the bottom may rot due to lack of proper air circulation.

Never pack or store the dahlia tubers or clumps in ground or sand during the dormant season — the chances are they will be lost. You may place them in the ground or sand a short time before planting season to start the sprouts, but this is not necessary unless you are unable to divide the clumps except when the eyes show.

Separating Dahlia Tuber Clumps

This can be done any time after lifting. Many separate immediately after lifting, while others prefer waiting until spring. The time of separation will be largely controlled by conditions of storage, quantity to be stored and locality.

The tuber clumps are more easily separated at harvesting time as they are easier to cut and you will need less storage space. Unless you have had some experience in separating, I would suggest spring as the better time. You will then find the eyes are more prominent which will be a guide for you in the separation. 

At the point where the dahlia tubers are attached to the clump is the crown which contains the eyes, and without a portion of the crown containing one or more eyes, your tubers are worthless.

I now have brought you back to planting time, and in covering briefly the most important phases of dahlia culture, I don’t want you to feel that it is a delicate plant or one that requires an unusual amount of care or attention. I am anxious, however, to have you meet with much success in growing dahlias because I know that if you are not already an enthusiast, that once you see them and realize the beauty in them, you will join the already large army of dahlia fans.

The most interesting thing in life is the study of nature that reveals such beauty and grandeur beyond description. Look around when the trees and plants are at the height of their growing season and see the vari-colored foliage and blossoms of so many shapes, formations and marvelous coloring, to realize what the hand of nature does with its paint brush. 

Where can one find greater recreation and more pleasure than in work among these great handiworks of nature? We must each have a hobby in order to keep ourselves fit for active duties, and anyone who is engaged in an office, factory, store or bank will find that it is restful and fascinating to get out among the flowers and the growing things for recreation.

If you do not have a hobby, why not try a flower and vegetable garden? It is most absorbing — you will find yourself completely engrossed after once trying it and will forget entirely your cares and worries of the day. Just to work with and watch their growth from day to day, to study the habits of the various plants will give you something tangible for the small cost and the labor involved. 

The boys and girls and even the small tots will enjoy and be attracted to your garden — they appreciate the beauty in nature. I can remember well as a small boy collecting fruit trees which might come up along fences and by-ways on my father’s farm in Pennsylvania and transplanting them to the yard or orchard. This diversion has followed me through life, and the past twenty years having been in business, I have always had a garden as a hobby. 

It is the most gratifying recreation I have ever known — it makes for the fullness of life, being a part of God’s great plan.