This article is adapted from a dahlia catalog published in 1927 by the Jacob Schulz Company of Louisville, Kentucky.
Although the original work is in the public domain, this article has been edited for the modern reader and may contain new material.
This version is Copyright © 2024 by Steve K. Lloyd and may not be reproduced without permission.
Editor’s note: This article discusses gardening techniques which were commonly recommended at the time of original publication. Please note that some of these may no longer be considered best practices for dahlia growers. While this article contains some excellent information, please remember that it was written nearly 100 years ago. Consult modern guides before relying on the techniques discussed here.
Our Specialty Is Dahlias
We specialize in Dahlias because to us they are the most beautiful of flowers. While others may not entirely agree with this opinion, it must be admitted that they are without doubt the most beautiful of late summer’s flowers. No garden, no matter how small or how large, is complete without a fair representation of these most gorgeous blooms.
History of the Dahlia
From the years 1571 to 1577 a Spanish physician, one Hernandez, resided in old Mexico. Like other professional men of his time, his interests were broad. No doubt his practice was limited, for he found time to write an extensive work on the animal and plant life of the country.
Some years afterwards, one Reecho brought Dr. Hernandez’s work back to Europe with him and published it in Rome. The book contained among other interesting and unusual descriptions of plant and animal life, a brief mention, description and illustration of the plant “Acoctli.” His comments lead us to believe that the plant described was the Dahlia. It grew wild in the sandy soil of that country and in single form. This is the first known reference to the flower.
In 1791, Cavanilles, another Spaniard and botanist of note published a technical botanical description of a flower he had grown from seed brought from Mexico. He called it “Dahlia Pinnatta,” “Dahlia” after a young Swedish botanist, Andreas Dahl, who had been Cavanilles’ student and who had died just two years previous.
Such was the start of the Dahlia in Europe. In the early part of the 19th Century the Dahlia was introduced into England and France and began to be extensively grown.
From the single blossom of "Acoctli” with its yellow disk center and scarlet rays, the various forms of the Dahlia have developed until now we have not only single blossoms in a profusion of colors but a large variety of shapes and forms, each one in as many different colors.
Each year brings added varieties from growers, each a new prize to treasure. The Dahlia has become the most loved of all late summer flowers. There is a shape and form for each taste and a color for every mood.
The Culture of the Dahlia
The Dahlia thrives in an open, sunny location, though they will succeed in partial shade in some Instances. They will grow in any kind of soil, but a rich, sandy loam is the best. To enrich poor ground in the fall spade in well-rotted manure or decayed vegetation. Use bone meal at planting time, working it well into the soil. Spade the soil thoroughly as deep as possible before the tuber is planted.
Planting.
Dahlias are planted in the spring. It is safe to plant them any time after the danger of frost is over. They usually blossom in six to eight weeks after planting time.
It is a good plan to start planting early and plant tubers about one to two weeks apart up until the middle or late part of May. When ready to plant place stout stakes at least three feet apart, four feet is better. Then dig the holes about six inches deep and place the bulb in a horizontal position with the sprout end two inches from the stake. Never stand the bulb on end. This method of planting is known as the “stake” method and is the most successful for general results.
Cultivation.
For the most beautiful flowers, cultivate often. Keep the soil loose around young plants. Do not permit it to bake or harden.
After each rain, cultivate them to keep the ground in good condition and prevent vent weed growth. Later in the season when the fine, silky roots come to the surface stop cultivation and put a mulch of some kind around the plant to retain moisture and protect the small roots.
Training the Plant.
After several sprouts appear, remove all but one or two from each plant. When they are sufficiently above the ground to show three or four leaves, pinch out the center stem.
This will cause branches to grow from the laterals and produce a strong, bushy plant. At this time they should be securely tied to the stake with twine or some soft material. Continue the tying as the plant grows so that it will not be broken down by wind or other causes.
For Large Blooms.
For extra large blooms remove the first set of side shoots from the first bud with a sharp knife.
This forces the plant life that would have gone into the two side shoots into the first bud, making an extra large flower, much larger and giving a good stem.
For exhibition purposes, disbud every side-shoot down the entire length of the stalk. The one flower that you will get from the plant will be of gigantic size.
Forcing for Exhibition.
To produce the finest flowers for exhibition purposes, plant three to five feet apart, using a liberal amount of manure or fertilizers and cultivate frequently.
Apply fertilizer or manure, broadcast or liquid form, at each or every other hoeing, and disbud. Nitrate of Soda proves very effective for forcing. Apply when plants are in bud, making applications often, but do not use too much at a time. Apply Nitrate of Soda in crystal form on top of the ground, or in liquid form, using one tablespoon of nitrate of soda crystals to a gallon of water, using a sprayer or watering can.
When the flower-buds appear, only one bud should be allowed to come to maturity, enabling each branch to produce one exceptionally fine, perfect flower. The flowers, for quality, must not be allowed to receive the drenching rains or scalding sun when nearing full bloom and should be protected from such.
It is always advisable to cut flowers that are to be exhibited as late as possible at night when the dew is on them, placing them in water and keeping them as cool as possible overnight, thereby enabling them to withstand handling, packing and transportation.
Watering.
Use very little water until flowering buds appear, after which plants can be thoroughly watered about once a week. Soak the ground until moist at least six inches deep. Rake over the surface the following day. This conserves moisture and lets in air and sunshine.
Harvesting.
As soon as the frost kills the foliage and the strength of the stalk recedes into the tubers, harvest your Dahlias. Dig them up carefully, do not pull them up.
After removing the clump from the ground, shake gently to remove the soil that will naturally fall off.
Cut off at tops two or three inches from the clumps. Lay them in the sun and air for about an hour or two.
Pack in a cool, frost-proof place having an average temperature of about 45 to 55 degrees. The cellar provides the best place for their storage.
It is a good plan to insulate them from furnace and frost with burlap, paper or canvas. This excludes the air and preserves an even temperature. This is very important, as bulbs will shrivel and dry up if not properly taken care of.
Dividing the Clumps.
Divide the clumps in the spring. The dividing should be done carefully with a sharp knife or coping saw and particular care should be taken to avoid the necks of the tubers. The eyes of the tubers are easily recognized. Cut the tubers so that there is at least one eye on each division of the clump.
To Preserve Cut Flowers.
Flowers should be cut late in the afternoon or early in the morning. Place tips of the stems in water for about twenty seconds while boiling on the stove and immediately plunge the tips deep into cold water.
If blooms droop prematurely, place stems deep in hot water and allow them to remain until the water cools. This will usually revive them. A pinch of salt in the water helps.
Please note that the following dahlia catalog is presented for historical purposes only. We do not have these dahlias for sale. One dollar in 1927 is worth about $17.00 today.
Dahlia Varieties for 1927
Classification of Dahlias
We follow the classification of Dahlias as adopted by the American Dahlia Society. Under the different headings and classifications the names and their application as recently defined by the American Dahlia Society follow:
Cactus. Double flowers.
(A) True Fluted Type. Flowers fully double, floral rays or petals long, narrow, incurved or twisted, with sharp, divided or fluted points and with margins revolute (rolled backward or outward), forming in the outer florets a more or less perfect tube for more than half the length of the ray or petal.
(B) Hybrid Cactus. Flowers fully double, floral rays (petals) short as compared with previous type; broad, flat, recurved or twisted, not sharply pointed except when tips are divided (staghorn), margins only slightly revolute, and tubes of outer florets less than half the length of the ray or petal. This type intergrades with the Decorative and Peony flowered classes.
Peony-flowered.
Flowers are semi-double, having two, three or more rows of broad, flat, loosely arranged rays or petals, surrounding an open center, which is usually a conspicuous golden-yellow, the inner floral rays being usually cured or twisted, the outer rays either flat, or more or less irregular. Sometimes the rays are pointed, occasionally they curl and twist over the center.
Decorative.
Double flowers, full to the center, early in the season at least, flat rather than ball shaped, with broad, flat, somewhat loosely arranged floral rays with broad points or rounded tips which are straight or decurved (turn down or back), not incurved, and with margins revolute, if rolled at all.
Show Type.
Flowers globular or ball shaped, rather than broad or flat, full to the center, showing regular spiral arrangement of florets, with floral rays or petals more or less quilled or with their margins involute (rolled forward or inward) and rounded tip, (Dahlias of this type with flowers spotted, variegated or parti-colored, were formerly classed as Fancy, a group no longer recognized).
Hybrid Show.
Giant Show or Colossal Type. Flowers fully double, broadly hemispherical to flatly globular in form, loosely built so spiral arrangement of florets is not immediately evident ; floral rays broad, heavy, cupped or quilled, with rounded tips and more or less involute margins. Verging toward the Decorative Class and sometimes found classed with the Decoratives.
Collarette.
Of single type, with not more than nine large floral rays, but with a circle of smaller, narrower, usually different colored, rays standing at base or in front of larger rays and forming a collar between them and open center.
Single.
Open-centered flowers, small to very large, with 8 to 12 floral rays (petals) more or less in one circle, margins often decurved or revolute, (turned down or backward).
