Catalog of Miller Dahlia Farms 1948
|
Time to read 8 min
This article is adapted from a dahlia catalog published in 1948 by Miller Dahlia Farms of Seattle, Washington. R.C. Miller was the proprietor.
Although the original work is in the public domain, this article has been edited for the modern reader and may contain new material.
This version is Copyright © 2024 by Steve K. Lloyd and may not be reproduced without permission.
Editor’s note: This article discusses gardening techniques which were commonly recommended at the time of original publication. Please note that some of these may no longer be considered best practices for dahlia growers. While this article contains some excellent information, please remember that it was written more than 100 years ago. Consult modern guides before relying on the techniques discussed here.
The Highest Quality Dahlia Tubers Obtainable
Dahlia Culture
For the healthy growth and the lovely blooms your Dahlia planting should be expected to produce, just a few simple requirements are demanded. These are easy to understand and follow when we consider the manner in which the Dahlia plant grows.
The root division which we plant has an eye near or on the part of the stalk which forms the top of the root. This eye contains the really important part of the entire tuber, and from it a stalk and feed roots grow to form the Dahlia plant. The rest of the root is merely a dinner basket to supply the necessary nourishment for starting the new plant.
As soon as the feed roots, very fine at first, reach the point where they start to supply enough plant food to enable the newly-formed leaves above ground to begin work, the original tuber has performed its purpose, and may as well be disregarded.
In proof of this, the tuber you plant may be cut in half or a still smaller portion be planted with a resultant vigorous plant, providing the conditions of soil and moisture, etc., are made right.
Thus the new plant needs nothing in the way of fertilizer or irrigation until the new feed roots are established. And the more numerous and faster-growing these feed roots, the stronger the plant and the better crop of dahlia tubers for the next year.
Any fertilizer should for this reason, not be placed in the hole in which the tuber is planted, but spread over the entire Dahlia plot, as the new roots will cover in most cases the entire space allotted to your Dahlias.
Some of these new roots will thicken and begin to store up starch and other food elements, forming the new crop of storage tubers.
It is when these are growing and the buds on the plant are beginning to open that plenty of plant food and water are necessary. It is known that one bloom in its formation requires many times the water and food that is needed for the foliage and stalk growth.
It is clear anything which tends to interfere with the growth of these new feed roots will stunt the growth of the plant, so an over-supply of water at the start, or the presence of rotting vegetation or manure, anything which will cause these tubers to rot before they reach a healthy growth, is to be avoided.
Plenty of room is needed for root development and space between plants should be enough for good ventilation to avoid mildew of the foliage.
With an understanding of these requirements, we can plan the best way to plant and care for the Dahlias.
The soil should be loose and well drained. Spading deeply as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring is a necessary part of preparation. On heavy clay soil some sort of humus should be worked in, and some sand or fine coal ashes. If new clay, a dressing of agricultural lime raked in the surface after spading will be of advantage.
If the ground has been planted to a root crop the year before an application of bone meal and potash should be made, and this worked into the surface before planting. About 5 pounds of bone meal and 1 pound of Muriate or Sulphate of Potash to every 10 plants.
When the soil has warmed up nicely, and not until then, is the time to plant. DO NOT PLANT A DAHLIA TUBER IN COLD, WET GROUND, and expect anything but failure.
Some varieties may pull through, but nothing is gained by planting too early. A hole about 5 inches deep in heavy soil, to as deep as 8 inches in light sandy soil, is dug for each tuber. Allow at least 3 feet each way between holes. This for the large varieties. The Pompons may be spaced closer, also the miniatures for mass effects.
A stake should be driven close to the hole and the tuber laid therein with the eye or sprout facing up, and toward the stake.
The dahlia tuber should be covered about two inches, and the hole gradually filled in as the plant grows. It may be tied to the stake with soft twine or rag to avoid cutting the stalk.
For a bushy plant with numerous blooms the dahlia may be pinched out after the 3rd set of leaves forms. This will force the buds at the base of the dahlia to develop and the plant will spread out. For large blooms, pinch out the buds on each branch down to the base buds leaving only one bud to a stalk. This allows long stems for cutting or exhibition,
As Pompons and Miniatures are somewhat valued in inverse ratio to their size none of these should be disbudded, but the young plant may be pinched out to make more blooms.
There are a few insect pests which may infect your Dahlia, depending on your locality. Aphids or other sucking insects, or leaf hoppers or other chewing insects. There are a number of good sprays and dusts on the market, including the new DDT which may be used according to directions on the package. Your local feed.store or hardware dealer will help you select whichever is indicated by your local conditions.
Important note: DDT (Dichlorodiphenyltrichloroethane) was banned in the United States in 1972.
The ground around the Dahlia plants should be kept in a loose condition by frequent cultivation, deep at first and then shallower as the plant grows and the feed roots spread out, and near the surface. If your summer is very hot, a mulch between the Dahlias of grass clippings, or other material, will help keep the ground cool.
Avoid overheating the dahlias. During extreme heat it is advisable to pick off the buds and not allow blossoms to form, thus saving any possible dangerous wilting of the plant.
When watering, after the buds have started to open, and not until then, it is better to give the ground a thorough soaking once a week or every ten days, than to sprinkle the surface every day. The moisture should reach down about a foot to be of the most value.
Dahlia blooms should be cut either early in the morning before the sun starts to dry them out, or late in the evening. The best method of cutting for long keeping blooms is to carry a bucket of cold water into the garden and plunge the stem of the Dahlia into it as soon as it is cut from the bush.
A knife should be used instead of scissors, as the object is to not press the stem shut, but rather leave it so that it will absorb water readily for the bloom. The cut flowers should then be placed in the cold water container, in a cool dark place, and away from any drafts, for several hours, or if cut in the evening, overnight.
After that they are ready for placing in your vases or other containers for display, and will keep much longer than if any other method of preparation is used. Too much foliage left on the stem will greatly lessen the keeping quality of the bloom.
After the first killing frost the Dahlia clumps should be dug and stored for the winter. If the sections where there is no frost, or where it comes very late in the year, the plants may be cut down any time and after allowing a few days for the sap to go down into the roots, the clumps may be dug and cared for the same as if they had been killed by frost.
It is good to dig the dirt away from the clump and cut down with the spade all around it rather deep before lifting it out. This will cut the feed roots which may extend out as far as two feet from the stalk, and which might break some of the tubers from the stalk if not cut. Any dahlia tubers which are broken at the neck will probably not be any good the following spring.
The tuber clump may be allowed to stand for a while to dry out the dirt, which may then be shaken off gently. Or a gentle stream of water may be used to wash the clumps. The stalk should then be cut off close to the clump, and it is then ready to be divided or stored.
A cool, not too dry cellar is the best place for root storage, being sure it is frost proof. It does not need much below freezing to ruin Dahlia tubers. Also, dry warm air will cause the tubers to dry out and shrivel up, so that most of them will not grow in the spring.
In dividing the tuber clumps, all that is necessary is to have an eye for each tuber saved, and these eyes are plainly visible at the time of digging, if one wishes to divide them then. This will do away with the possibility of stem rot, which sometimes spoils the entire clumps.
Cut surfaces may be dusted or dipped in powdered lime or sulphur and the roots packed in boxes of fine sawdust, or even dry dirt. The name of the variety may be written on each tuber with an indelible pencil, moistening the surface so the writing will be permanent. This avoids the possibility of lost tags and mixed-up varieties.
Any special problems not covered will be gladly considered on request, and all available information thereto will be given.
Dahlia Varieties for Sale in 1948 by Miller Dahlia Farms
Please note that this information is provided for historic reference only. We do not have these dahlias for sale. One dollar in 1948 is worth about $13 today.
