Catalog of Golden Rule Dahlia Farm 1945
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Time to read 4 min
This article is adapted from a dahlia catalog published in 1945 by Golden Rule Dahlia Farm of Lebanon, Ohio. Harley T. Peck and Son were the proprietors.
Although the original work is in the public domain, this article has been edited for the modern reader and may contain new material.
This version is Copyright © 2024 by Steve K. Lloyd and may not be reproduced without permission.
Editor’s note: This article discusses gardening techniques which were commonly recommended at the time of original publication. Please note that some of these may no longer be considered best practices for dahlia growers. While this article contains some excellent information, please remember that it was written almost 80 years ago. Consult modern guides before relying on the techniques discussed here.
Principles of Dahlia Culture
Any type of soil is suitable or may be made so. If too heavy with clay, sand may be added—not too coarse. Humus is very important. Peat moss, compost or purchased humus may be added. Since most soil is deficient in humus, one cannot go far wrong in adding it, preferably in the fall or very early spring.
For the midwest, rye is almost the only successful cover crop; sow after Dahlias have been dug. Plow it under in the spring while still tender, before heads have well developed. If allowed to get too old and tough, plowed-under rye may ruin your soil for a season.
When the weather and soil are right, plow deeply a few weeks before planting.
In many of the heavy soils in this section drainage is most important. Deep plowing, sufficient sand and humus to make the soil porous should suffice, but locations are found where tile drainage is necessary to protect against very heavy rainy spells.
Dahlias do well in a neutral to fairly acid soil. Liming however will do no harm and sometimes much good by releasing nutrient ingredients of the soil.
Fertilizing Dahlias
Nitrogen produces rank foliage and flowers. Phosphates produce tuber growth and fibrous roots. Potash makes for good bloom color and increases the resistance of dahlias to disease.
Any application of fertilizer should be well mixed with about 1000 times its weight of soil to prevent burning of fibrous roots. We use 2-10-6 (nitrogen-phosphate-potash) with our planting.
Fertilizers mixed with soil at planting is the most efficient method. Top dressing is effective with potash and nitrogen but the phosphates do not get down to the roots until plowed under.
Manure is doubly important as a fertilizer and supplier of humus.
Chicken manure should be applied sparingly or composted before using. Leaves composted till decayed are a valuable source of both humus and fertilizing elements.
Most soils are deficient in potash, which may be supplied in wood ashes, muriate or sulphate of potassium.
It is better to use some reliable brand of mixed fertilizer at about six pounds for every ten to twelve hills of dahlias, well mixed with plenty of soil than to use a chemical fertilizer like sodium nitrate for it takes a chemist to know how little to use.
Planting Dahlia Tubers
Thorough plowing or spading—with soil dry enough to break up well—is the best preparation. April 15th to July 1st depending on the season is right for Ohio Valley.
For cut flowers plant as early as soil and season dictates. For exhibition, June 1st is right.
In general, 4 ft. apart each way is a good rule. For the home garden 4 or 5 stakes should be provided. 4 by 5 ft. with two plants to a stake is also good.
Disbudding Dahlias for Best Blooms
This operation is valuable for the production of the best flowers and stems for either cutting or exhibition.
Take out the “suckers” or small laterals for two or three nodes or joints (where the leaf joins the stalk) down from the terminal bud, starting with the first or crown bud of the plant.
Deadhead blooms before they wilt, thus stimulating development of fresh growth, buds and flowers.
Visit us in July and August and we will give you a practical demonstration.
Watering Dahlias
In protracted drought the foliage should be well and forcibly sprayed with water to prevent red spiders. In general, do not water till the ground becomes fairly dry and then soak to a good depth.
When the surface shows cracks and is dry enough, use a rake or hoe to provide dust mulch to conserve soil moisture. A light daily watering is unnecessary and even injurious.
Cultivating & Staking Dahlias
Digging should be about November 1st to 15th regardless of the date of killing frost. Dig without bending or breaking the necks of tubers.
Cut stalks to within 2 inches of roots. Store in a cool cellar immediately after digging, packing in peat moss, clean sawdust, sand or other suitable material.
Lifting Dahia Tubers in Autumn
Working the ground between plants is beneficial to keep weeds under control and to conserve soil moisture in dry weather. Dahlias will respond to cultivation whenever the soil conditions are suitable.
As plants grow larger, cultivation should be shallower so as not to cut surface feeder roots. Tie plants to stakes, once for every 18 inches of growth.
If tubers have been well nourished with balanced fertilizer and not over-fertilized and the season has been such as to properly develop and ripen tubers, they will keep well.
Big thick stems are more conducive to crown or stem rot than slimmer stems grown on leaner soils. Farm grown, not heavily fertilized, not watered dahlias, produce more tubers that almost always keep well through winter.
Dividing Dahlia Tuber Clumps
In the spring divide dahlia tuber clumps by splitting the stem and crown so as to leave one eye or sprout to each division of one or more tubers.
Dahlia Varieties for Sale in 1945
Please note that this information is provided for historic reference only. We do not have these dahlias for sale. One dollar in 1945 is worth over $17 today.
