Gilbert's Dahlia Fertilization Tips 1925
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Time to read 4 min
This article is adapted from a dahlia catalog published in 1925 by The Dahlia Farm (Henry G. Gilbert Nursery) of East Moriches, Long Island, New York.
Although the original work is in the public domain, this article has been edited for the modern reader and may contain new material.
This version is Copyright © 2024 by Steve K. Lloyd and may not be reproduced without permission.
Editor’s note: This article discusses gardening techniques which were commonly recommended at the time of original publication. Please note that some of these may no longer be considered best practices for dahlia growers. While this article contains some excellent information, please remember that it was written more than 100 years ago. Consult modern guides before relying on the techniques discussed here.
Fertilizing Dahlias: Advice from a Pro (circa 1925)
FERTILIZING WHEN PLANTING FEEDS THE BUSH.
A primer on fertilizer formulas would be of great help to most large growers, as well as to the owners of very small gardens.
More often than not, the buyer has little idea of the real value in the sack he receives. It is fertilizer, and whether it is suited to the ground he will plant, or the crop grown, is seldom considered.
Most fertilizer manufacturers are compelled to sell a cheap mixture, one low in potash, and high in phosphoric acid, this last ingredient being mostly acid phosphate.
Most of the nitrogen can be replaced by a cover crop or manure, and though too much nitrogen will force a heavy growth of bush at the expense of tuber and flower, there must be some easily available for starting growth quickly, especially for green plants.
Potash is absolutely necessary for the starch and sugar contained in the tuber, and if absent to a great degree, the plant, though seemingly healthy and vigorous, will produce smaller and many imperfect flowers, and tubers that have neither size nor stamina.
Such plants, poorly nourished, are easy prey for pests, and susceptible to fungus. Potash salts are very valuable in this one thing alone, as they strengthen the plants against the attack of fungus, and investigation has proved their value in driving away cutworms, borers, and all other pests, as they dislike its bitterness.
A two-year test on my farm proved conclusively to me that proper fertilizing is necessary, and that a well balanced ration will show its value plainly in growth and crop.
This test, carried on by a field expert under the direction of Dr. H. A. Huston, involved the use of a differing formula on 12 plots of land, marked out and adjacent to each other.
I had always advocated dispensing with fertilizers, because my own tests had shown poor results from their use. The reason had been my ignorance of fertilizing values, and improper formulas. 6-6-4 meant only what it said to me. I had never stopped to inquire about the difference in derivatives and values.
The designation 6-6-4 on a bag of fertilizer meant just that. How was I to know that the cheaper, more generally used muriate of potash contained injurious chlorides, and that sulphate of potash is best suited to root crops? But I learned.
The results at the end of the second year seemed convincing, but not till the past season did I really grasp the value of potash.
During the war most fertilizers were minus this most necessary ingredient, and no doubt much of the weakness of many modern dahlias began during this period.
My conclusions, based on what I saw during the experiment, were these: Nitrogen alone was harmful. Phosphate alone is valueless. Phosphate plus nitrogen failed to give as good plants or flowers as did the unfertilized plots used as a basis for judgment, and the tubers did not keep as well.
Nitrogen and potash, and phosphate and potash, both fell short of the full mixture. Each year gave much the same impression, and each winter the clumps were weighed, tubers numbered, and the final values reached with reasonable certainty.
The past year has done most to convince me of the value of the formula 4-8-10 for our soil and crop.
Many of the tubers used in the two-year test were planted together on unfertilized land during the past season, and the crop was surprising evidence of the value of a fertilizer of the formula I now use.
The tubers grown on the full fertilized plot during the two test seasons made large clumps of perfect tubers. Not only was the size and number greater, but their keeping quality proved all that could be desired.
During what was a bad season because of extreme drought followed by storms, the plants could easily be picked out in the field, and the flowers were brighter, and seemed to have more substance.
I am using a fertilizer 4-8-10, and though there is no such thing as a best formula that will suit all soils and conditions, I believe this one will do as well as any for dahlias. The ingredients for this formula were chosen by an expert after many tests, and put up for me by one of the best manufacturing companies.
This near-perfect fertilizer for dahlias is for sale in 100 pound bags and is the best fertilizer for all gardens and truck farms. A trial will convince you of the great value given. Orders should come in as early as possible, as only a limited quantity of this particular formula is mixed for us.
Send $3.00 for a bag and help insure the glory of your garden.
100-lb. Bag $3.00. Per Ton, $50.00 F.O.B. Long Island, New York.
