This article is adapted from a dahlia catalog published in 1916 by N. Harold Cottam & Son, Dahlia Specialists of Wappingers Falls, New York.
Although the original work is in the public domain, this article has been edited for the modern reader and may contain new material.
This version is Copyright © 2024 by Steve K. Lloyd and may not be reproduced without permission.
Editor’s note: This article discusses gardening techniques which were commonly recommended at the time of original publication. Please note that some of these may no longer be considered best practices for dahlia growers. While this article contains some excellent information, please remember that it was written more than 100 years ago. Consult modern guides before relying on the techniques discussed here.
Dahlia Cultivation & Care
Advice From a 1916 Dahlia Grower
The dahlia, unlike most flowers, is not particular as to soil and environment, but will succeed on almost any soil where anything else will grow. About the only soil where the dahlia will not succeed is a heavy, sour, wet clay. But they prefer a medium light, sandy loam not exceptionally rich, but yet well supplied with humus and in good mechanical condition.
Unlike some growers we do not recommend heavy applications of barnyard manure in the spring or at planting time. If the soil is very poor and needs fertilizer of this kind or is deficient in humus, it should be applied and worked in the fall.
We prefer planting in a reasonably good piece of ground and not apply any fertilizer other than a small amount of good, readily available chemical fertilizer at about the time of the second hoeing or about the time the first buds are forming and then no other unless the plants receive a check.
An open sunny location seems to favor them at all times, but they do very well even in extremely shady places where the sun only touches them for a limited time each day. In such shaded places, however, the plants will make a much larger and more tender growth than out in the open and in some varieties the coloring will not be so intense.
Dahlias should be planted in this section about May 15th to June 15th, in rows about 3 feet apart and from 4 to 6 inches deep. After they have attained a height of about 8 to 10 inches, begin to train them according to the system preferred. Either on stakes, the branching system or in massed lots.
Perhaps for yards and for general purposes, the staking system is best and for this the stakes should be set at time of planting and the plants tied to these stakes as they grow, thus protecting them from winds and allowing freedom of passage from one plant to another when in bloom.
If the branching system is adopted, stakes will not be necessary, as after the plants have developed two sets of leaves, the top is pinched out which forces the plant to send out a branch at each leaf, thus making four branches instead of only the one main stalk and, consequently, gives a stockier plant with more flowers and a neater appearance.
A plant of this kind will not be easily blown down by the winds. This system however, makes blooming time about 2 weeks later.
If space is limited, the massing system may be adopted in event of which bulbs should not be planted more than 1 to 2 feet apart, allow the plants to form large masses supporting each other and giving a solid mass of flowers and foliage and avoiding the ugly, unnatural effect that numerous stakes invariably give.
To obtain the very largest and most perfect flowers in any system, only the best and strongest buds should be allowed to develop. The rest should be pinched off, allowing the plants to throw their full strength into developing the remaining ones into exhibition blooms,
Do not be afraid to cut your flowers. The more you cut the more they come. If you can't use them yourself, give them to your neighbors and you will then be helping yourself at the same time you are giving them a great deal of pleasure.
Tubers should be dug soon after the first heavy frost kills down the plants in the fall and immediately stored in a cool (not freezing) reasonably dry place.
Place in boxes, barrels, crates or on shelves, preferably upside down and do not cover with any material such as ashes, sand, dirt, leaves, etc. Material of this kind almost invariably holds too much moisture and causes the bulbs to decay.
In the spring, before planting time, take out the clumps and divide by cutting first in two parts and then separating as nearly as possible to one good root with one good strong eye. Never plant more than two tubers in a single hill, as in this case you will get an immense number of stalks and a consequently large number of flowers which the roots will be unable to support and your flowers will be exceedingly small and imperfect.
These are only very general instructions as it is impossible to give any one fixed set of instructions to be followed by all since soils, climate and seasons differ so. We hope however, that we have given the prospective purchaser an idea of the principle of dahlia growing from which, wth the use of a little judgment, he will be able to obtain the great pleasure and satisfaction which only the dahlia grower knows.
Surely there is no other flower that will succeed on such a wide range of soils, that will adapt itself to so widely varying altitudes and climates and that will give such an abundance of bloom of unlimited color variations at so small an outlay of money and labor.
Dahlia Varieties from 1916
Page Images from the Catalog
Please note that this information is presented for historical reference only. We are not offering these dahlias for sale. One dollar in 2016 is the equivalent of about $30 today.
